Deformulation Analysis of a Premium Beauty Serum for Formula Benchmarking

Background & Client Challenge

A global skincare company was developing a new premium beauty serum and required a comprehensive understanding of a commercially available benchmark product to support its formulation strategy. The client aimed to identify the major functional ingredients, estimate their relative concentrations, and understand the formulation architecture of the reference serum while maintaining compliance with internal research and development requirements.

However, the product label provided only limited ingredient information and did not disclose detailed formulation composition, ingredient ratios, or functional contributions. To address these challenges, the client commissioned our deformulation analysis service to characterize the serum composition, identify key chemical components, and provide semi-quantitative information to support product development and competitive benchmarking.

Our Solution

Our laboratory developed a comprehensive multi-technique workflow combining complementary analytical platforms to achieve broad chemical characterization of the beauty serum.

The sample was systematically analyzed using:

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) for functional group identification and polymer/silicone characterization;
Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy for molecular structure confirmation and complex ingredient identification;
X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) analysis for elemental composition screening and inorganic component assessment;
Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) for volatile and semi-volatile organic compound identification;
Total Ion Chromatography (TIC) analysis for comprehensive profiling of detectable chemical constituents.

By integrating data from multiple analytical techniques, our scientists established a detailed ingredient profile and evaluated the approximate contribution of each identified component.

Analytical Results and Findings

The deformulation analysis successfully identified the primary components within the beauty serum, including solvents, humectants, emollients, skin-conditioning agents, and antioxidant ingredients. The major formulation components were determined through combined spectral matching, chromatographic analysis, and semi-quantitative evaluation.

Identified Component	Estimated Content (wt%)	Functional Role
Lipid-based components	~50–60%	Primary emollient phase
Water	~20–25%	Main solvent and formulation carrier
Glycerol	~15–20%	Humectant
***	~2–3%	Cosolvent
Polydimethylsiloxane	~0.5–1%	Silicone-based emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate	Trace level	Humectant
Protein-derived components	Trace level	Skin-conditioning agents
***	Trace level	Humectant and formulation-supporting ingredient
Vitamin E	Trace level	Antioxidant
Coffee Bean Extract	Trace level	Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient

The analytical results revealed that the serum was primarily based on a water–glycerol moisturizing system, supported by lipid and silicone-based emollients to enhance skin feel and product texture.

Supporting Data (Typically Attachments)

Fig. 1. FTIR and GC-MS spectra of the sample.

Value Delivered to the Client

Through our comprehensive deformulation analysis, the client obtained a detailed understanding of the benchmark serum's formulation strategy, including key ingredient categories, approximate concentration ranges, and functional composition. The analytical insights enabled the client's R&D team to optimize formulation design, accelerate product benchmarking activities, and make informed decisions during the development of a competitive skincare product.

At Alfa Chemistry, our integrated approach combines state-of-the-art instrumentation, expert interpretation, and customized workflows to provide reliable formulation insights across cosmetics, personal care, pharmaceuticals, nutrition, and advanced materials. Whether for competitor benchmarking, quality investigation, raw material verification, or product development support, our deformulation solutions help companies transform unknown compositions into actionable scientific knowledge.

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